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Cambodia Overland Travelers'
Reports: Page 1 of 20 (July 2009 - ) Like what we're doing here? updated March 13, 2010 Fun in Poipet (March 2010): I am a single female traveller and was very reluctant to even to try to get into Cambodia after reading some of the hairy descriptions here and elsewhere. But the challenge and a nagging brother got to me, so go I did.Around the end of February/10, with the idea of seeing Angkor Wat and possibly Sihanoukville, started the odyssey. Took the 8:00 bus from Bangkok's northern bus station to Arranyaprathet. So far so good. The bus dropped us off quite close to the border. It wasn't clear where to walk and 'helpers' descended on me pretty quickly. Remembering their 'help' wasn't necessary, I walked ahead and sort of to the left and although the route wasn't marked well, eventually walked over to the Thai processing point. My papers were in order, so then walked thru that building and into a no man's land area that had a sign that said "No Waiting". Of course, there were people waiting there...Some distance beyond that on the right, passed thru the nurse's scrutiny and paperwork with little delay. Then it was on to a small building, on which hung a sign saying something like "Cambodia Entry Visa US $20". Outside was a uniformed guard who zeroed in on me right away, handed me a form to fill out and informed me that the cost would be $US 20 plus 100 Baht. Here the test of wills began. I'm not really good with extortion and I loathe corruption and I thought, if I don't get in, the hell with it. So I said to the guy, pointing, "But the sign says the visa is US $20." He said, no that was not the case. I paused for a minute and then repeated my initial assertion. This cat and mouse game went on for about 5 minutes, during which time the guard explained that the 100 baht extra was "for the Cambodian people". My nerves were finally starting to fray and I reached down and got out a US $1 bill and asked if that would help. The guy looked at me in disgust, said, "Wait 5 minutes" and walked away. I think he handed my paperwork to the guards inside the booth and shortly I had the visa for $20! After that I mistakenly walked thru to the building on the LEFT side, instead of the RIGHT side, where you have to get the visa stamped for it to be valid. The guy trying to get us on the free bus to the bus station caught the problem and re-directed me. The free bus to the bus station was the only way I could see to get out of downtown Poi Pet, a place that truly looked scary. So a few of us got in and although the guide said it was only a few kilometers, it was actually I'd guess at least 6 miles. When we got there the real trouble began. There is a counter where you can buy a $9 ticket for the bus to Siem Reap or a $12 ticket for a taxi, but for the taxi you need 4 people. Guys there were saying there'd be a bus in an hour or two. What I eventually understood is that they don't run a bus until there a lot of people for it and the bus station was nearly deserted. This was gettng scary. Two Swiss girls approached me and asked if I wanted to go in with them for the taxi. I was reluctant as the cost would be $16 and I tried to recruit another rider, but failed. The guys near the taxis were not friendly and were lying about busses. One said and hour, another said it would be two hours. So I got them together and had them repeat their stories and asked who was right. That didn't impress them and one of them succeeded in finding a couple of people to make up a foursome for the taxi, explaining to the Swiss girls they should leave me behind. By this time, things looked dark and I will be forever grateful to the Swiss girls for saying, no, we three will take the taxi, which we did. Getting out of Poi Pet was the worst part of Cambodia for me, though it makes a good, if wordy, bar story. Wouldn't want to go through that uncertainty and being that vulnerable again Prices (March 2010): Cab: BTS Chitlom – Morchit: 150 Baht (no meter) – 20 mins Bus: Morchit – Aranyaprathet: 202 Baht (arrived at the terminal at 5:25, got on the bus at 5:30, left at 5:35) – 4 hours There is a big glass window next to window 21 with sings and prices posted in English; plus the second we entered the station, someone from the bus company correctly “guessed” our destination and directed us accordingly. Tuk tuk: Aranyaprathet – border: 80 Baht (don’t try to haggle; it won’t work) – 10 mins The driver went straight to the border without trying the visa scam. Border: Thai immigration straight forward – 15 mins waiting in line. Cambodia immigration with e-visa straight forward (kind of sketch though) – 20 mins waiting in (sort of) a line. There was a large group of Russians and more came in as we were waiting – be prepared to push, shove and yell to maintain your spot, as they routinely try to cut the line or in some shape or form try to get ahead of you. I strongly recommend the online e-visa: cost: US$25, waiting time: less than 24 hrs, breeze through immigration (and of course peace of mind): priceless. Cab: Poipet – Siem Reap: US$40 – 2 hours Unlicensed hawker approached us right outside Cambodian immigration, walked us past the official looking ones about 200m along the road. Got us into the car (Camry) and off we were. Arrived at hotel around 12:30 and by 1:30 were having dollar beers and a fish amok lunch in the alley parallel to Pub Street. There and back (February 2010): Bus from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet was no problem at all. Crossing was equally simple. I got an e-visa a few days before my trip so there was no request for any additional "fees" or anything. My friend that I was traveling with is from an ASEAN nation so didn't need a visa and had no problems as well. We did have to fill out quarantine forms, which was hilarious because the woman handing them out was nearly coughing up a lung and sounded like she should have been under quarantine. Just say no (January 2010): We were in Bangkok on December the 21st 2009 on a two week tour through Asia and planned to take the overland-tour to Siem Reap the next day. We are a European family with 2 children, 12 and 15. We could have flown from Bangkok to Siem Reap but my friend, who lives in Siem Reap, adviced us to try the overland route. He had done it a couple of times and liked the landscape. So we decided to try the gamble and make this trip our day-adventure. Good for the kids to see something new. They know airports by now and this promissed something different. On the evening of the 21st of december we went to our hotel limosine desk to arrange a taxi to take us to the Thais-Cambodian border. The price was 10.000 Baht (250 Euro). From your website and from my friend I knew this was way too expensive. I asked the concierge at the hotel for a different taxi service. From below his counter he produced a book with business-cards from all kind of taxi's. We picked a nice one for the price of 2700 Baht (70 Euro). Pick up in the morning, no problem, and stop on route, no problem. The next morning, 8 o'clock, exactly as asked, our taxi driver was present. A very kind man, poor English but he was trying hard to give us a good time and he managed to make some jokes and show us the landscape. The aircon was so cold that we asked him to reduce it a bit. He took us to the border where we arrived at about 11:30. Somewhere half way, we asked for a half hour break at a petrol station for a drink, a snack and a visit to the rest-rooms. We came upon 4 roadblocks by the police. At three we were waved through, at one we were stopped. The officer asked for the drivers papers and for my pasport. That was all well, so this officer was not interested in my wife's and children's passports. Funny to see, this police officer had a helmet on, large dark glasses and a mouth-mask (Swine-flue). So I never saw this mans face. At one point, our taxi driver told me this was as close as he could get to the border. There was a sort of parking place to the right where he turned and let us off. We payed him with a bit of a tip, as one should. Even before we got out of the taxi, a lot of locals surrounded us. They offered to carry our bags, they handed us papers to fill in and offered to help us through the border work. And some told us that the parking place was a sort of check point and that we had to pay to pass the checkpoint. Since this was not my first visit to Thailand and Cambodia and thanks to your detailed desciption, I knew what to do: Smile, say "thank-you-thank-you" and keep on walking. So that is what we did. Nobody stoped us at this presumed checkpoint and we carried our own luggage. The Thai border was standard procedure, very much like leaving the country at the airport. A desk, a cue, an officer, some stamps and off you go. There were not many people crossing the border at that moment, but still the cue was slow. The Thai side of the border was simple and straightforward. Walking towards the Cambodia side, we crossed the bridge and were in Cambodia. Cambodia is very chaotic. People running all over and to and fro. But this is as it always has been. Now a lot of things had to be done. It started with the visa office, right after the bridge, clearly marked. There was an extra desk with a nurse behind it and a thermal camera. We had to fill in a form that we did not cough, had no fever or cold and some more questions or "none of the above". Although hot in the tropics, we passed the thermal camera test. Then we bought the visa. Four of us, two minutes for each visum, ready and off to the next building. This is an other 200 metres or so down the street. An other cue and wait and even more paperwork to fill in. One set of papers for each of is, in two-fold. Customs, they checked our pasport and visa and we could leave the building onto the street. Just outside this building, there was one more police officer. We could see his job was to check the pasports of everybody coming out of the customs building. When we came out, he had a look at my son's passport and waved us through. There we were in Poipet, about one o'clock in the afternoon. My friend send his brother in law to pick us up in Poipet, so we didn't have to negotiate our way to Siem Reap. The road to Siem Reap is perfect, couldn't be better. So here we were, 4 o'clock in the afternoon in Siem Reap at my friends house. If you want to have some fun en-route, I can advice you to take this land-route from Bangkok to Siem Reap. Now that I have done it once, I will take the plane next time. I have seen it, I liked it and it was OK. But please read this website and know the scams because they are there. Follow the instructions (December 2009): It was our first trip to Asia and we found your website to be of enormous help. EVERYTHING you cautioned travelers about crossing the Thai border into Cambodia came to pass. The false checkpoints and their collusion with the tuk tuk drivers that pick you up at the bus terminal, to the cab drivers who asked for money up front to take us from Poipet to Siem Reap, to the dozens of children begging or trying to sell you something or carry your luggage. I'm happy to report, due in large part to your site, that we didn't get ripped off once. My son dodged the 'money up front' scam by the cab drivers by saying that we only had Thai money and that we knew a money changer in Siem Reap who gave an astounding rate of exchange (get familiar with the money and quote them a sweet rate that the money changer the cabbies know can't possibly match). Just outside of Siem Reap the driver pulls over in front of half a dozen tuk tuk's and jumps out. Another guy comes up to the cab and tells you the ride is over and you have to get out of the cab since the driver is only licensed to drive from the border to this point and is not allowed to drive into the city limits. We were told we had to take TWO tuk tuk's from here to accommodate ourselves and our luggage to our hotel. We told him we were fine sitting there and would wait for another driver to show up. After a quick huddle with the group of drivers, our new found friend jumped into the cab, fired it up and we continued on to our hotel. On the way in tried to get us to have him drive us around the temples the next day for $40 which we didn't go for and instead rented a tuk tuk for the day (8 hours) for $15. In these situations we followed your advice..... stay calm, stay alert and be polite but firm with whomever you're dealing with. After they realize you're not going for the scam, everyone is friends again, no harm no foul. Bus to the border (October 2009): Cheapest bus ticket (the capitol tours) $3.50 in Siem Reap to Poipet. All bus tickets to Bangkok from Siem Reap will bring you to Kao San road (for approx $8). The Aranyaprathet visa scams (September 2009): I decided to take the Bangkok-Siem Reap trip on my own. From BKK airport, I was able to figure out how to go to Mochit bus station (intercity bus #550 for 35baht). Then on to Aranyaprathet, the tuk-tuk driver stopped at an "agent's office" for visa purposes, a guy suddenly approached the tuk-tuk and told me that I have to sign a document, fortunately I don't need a visa to enter Cambodia because I'm a Filipino (plus the fact that I'm already aware of this scam). They were still insisting that I need to sign that document and it's for free, I didn't entertain them and asked the driver to bring me straight to the border. He made a u-turn and I was shocked to see that he brought me to the Cambodian Consulate this time! The driver said I need a stamp from this office worth 1000baht, even if I don't need a visa. NO WAY!!! I asked him to bring me straight to the border, which he finally did. I didn't have any problem at the border, no money changing scams. I hired a taxi from Poipet to Siem Reap for 40$, a bit expensive because I didn't want to bargain with the drivers anymore. Scam control (August 2009): Just made the trip from Bangkok to Siem Reap a couple of days ago. My GF and I did it on our own with trains and taxi. Just thought I'd post all the current prices and info on the scams for anyone concerned about making this crossing. Airport scam (July 2009): Our family just flew into Siem Reap and then traveled overland to Poipet with two kids under 12. UPDATE (October 2009): I got a written reply from the Cambodian Embassy in our country to our complaint about the Siem Reap airport visa "over charging". They apologized and sent us a 40.00 western union check!!!!!! Cambodia is a really beautiful country and like everywhere else in the world, you've got kind hearted people who want to do the right thing and then a few bad apples. Amazing, only took six emails to find the right email address for someone who would listen and luckily we had the name of the official who "over charged" us. The change money at the border scam (July 2009): Me and my girlfriend booked a tour from Koh Chang to Siem Reap via Poipet at the Nature Beach Resort (Lonely Beach). In Poipet they first charged us 1200 baht for the visa, which is 200 baht more for the "service", but no serious problem so far. [Editor's note: We'd consider this a serious problem because it's not 200 baht more, it's 530 baht more. $20 x 33.5 = 670 baht.] But then we met our Cambodian "guide" who should bring us through the various passport controls from Thailand to Cambodia. Then he presented the following story to our traveller group from Koh Chang: [Editor's note: The dollar is presently worth about 4150 riels. It's been said all over this site, all over the internet, in travel guidebooks, everywhere. And we guess it needs to be said again: ***DO NOT CHANGE ANY MONEY AT THE BORDER IN POIPET NO MATTER WHAT REASON YOU ARE TOLD THAT YOU SHOULD*** Got it? Good.] Minibus, Siem Reap to BKK (July 2009): I've just done the Siem Reap to Bangkok minibus - thought I'd let you know, it was cheap, comfortable, and very cheerful, totally recommended. Bought the ticket from RTR travel near Molly Malone's, $9 all the way, no extras at all. Used them before on the same route, when the road was bad. This time there is a new minibus company based on the river just before the Pagoda and the Angkor Trade Centre, among the woodshops there. Newish minibus, left just after 12 noon, with 4 British flashpackers, and we arrived at the new "international bus station" at Poipet just after 2pm - very fast road now, very smooth. This new bus station has proper toilets, small cafe, sweet shop that tried to swindle with the change - 2000 Riel for a carton of milk, only gave me 1000 Riel change for $1, bluffed me when I queried that, finally gave me the other 1000 Riel. ------------------------ Thanks. Keep 'em coming. 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