Tales of Asia - Overland - Anlong Veng

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Cambodia Overland

Travelers' Reports:
Overland through the Anlong Veng border crossing

updated February 26, 2008

These are reports detailing experiences traveling independently between Thailand and Cambodia by way of Anlong Veng. This crossing is about 150 kilometers north of Siem Reap and opened to foreigners of all nationalities in November 2003. This can be a convenient border crossing for those who wish to travel between Siem Reap and Laos (Vientiane, Luang Prabang) and northern Thailand (Isaan, Chiang Mai). If you'd like to share your own experiences, please e-mail them to me.

By bike (February 2008):

The road to the border on the Thai side is now paved. There is a resort on the Thai side maybe 10 km from the border. At the border the proceedure is very simple, I get stamped out of Thailand then walk over to the Visa shack on the Cambodian side. There is one guy working and three hanging out. They give me the form which I fill out and give them my passport. One of the guys not doing anything says that the visa fee is $25.00, so I give them $20.00. The guy processing the visa takes the $20.00 and gives me my passport with visa. The guy that asked for $25.00 asks me how I knew that it was only $20.00. I tell him that I've been through there before, and I read the internet.

Across the path to get stamped into Cambodia. As the guy was giving me my passport back he looked like he wanted to ask me for money, or at least had the look on his face of give me money. I didn't.

The road to Anlong Veng is now paved from the border to the city. There are 2 or 3 new guest houses that are much improved from my last visit three years ago.

Road work is also going on on the road to Siem Reap. The On the way to Samroang I passed a section that had already been paved.

I took the road west as far as the turn for the Thai border at Kap Choeng. It was in good shape for a dirt road. The road from the border to that intersection was in less good shape.

Exit Cambodia at Kap Chong there were no problems at the Thais did not ask to see a ticket leaving the country. They were very friendly in fact.

A visa run from Thailand (March 2007):

I recently did my first visa run at Chong Sa-Ngam Border. Surprisingly smooth venture. I reached Chong Sa-Ngam around 9am and there were not many people around. No problems at all at the Thai office. A very friendly Thai officer in his 40s promptly stamped my passport with a smile and invitation to "Come back to Thailand soon!". In and out of the Thai office in less than 5 minutes.

I then walked over to the Cambodian side. A Cambodian officer stopped me soon as I crossed over and asked for my passport. After flipping a few pages, he led me over to a tent where there was man (not in uniform) sitting at a table with piles of paper (looking like forms and transport schedules). I had to follow him as he had my passport. I was questioned in a mix of Khmer and a little English about my destination and mode of transport to Cambodia. They refused to give me back my passport and kept pressing me for answers. But after a fruitless 10-minute 'talk' with me shaking my head with a smile, indicating my non-understanding of their questions, I managed to get away from them, soon as I got my passport back. I think they were trying to sell me transportation to Cambodia.

At the Cambodian office, 3 officers spent about 10 minutes trying to ascertain my visa-free status (Singapore), searching through documents and confirming with one another constantly. Finally convinced that I do not require to pay for a visa, they gave me the entry stamp. However, when I handed the passport back to them requesting for an exit stamp then, they certainly did not look very happy when it dawned on them that I was on a visa run. Two of them immediately showed a black face and walked out of the office. The remaining officer reluctantly stamped my passport. Though unhappy, they did not give me any trouble at all.

Then it was back to the Thai side for my entry stamp, where I was warmly welcomed by the same officer :"Hello! You're back already! Good, good." We had a nice chat after my passport was stamped. A very smooth visa run at a relatively quiet border.

Speed demons (May 2005): [Note: Though I received this in late May 2005, the information contained in this item dates to January 2004. The author has also asked that I include a link to his site and some photos from Anlong Veng. Happy to oblige: http://www.irish-guy.com/2004_01_20_archive.html.]

Tuesday, January 20th, 2004

I stayed at Pirom's House in Surin for 1000 baht. The guesthouse owner had given me a list of times of the buses to the border. They start at 5.30am and there are about a dozen until 4.00pm. I was up a bit late at 6.18am and was surprised to see it very bright outside.

I walked directly to the bus station but was late so I paid a moto-driver 10 baht to take me half the way (the end half). I was in time to take the 6.50am bus for 30 baht. You can take a mini-bus for 100 baht which goes directly there. The border crossing and bus destination is called Chong Jom. It is approximately 80km from Surin.

It took over two hours to get there but there were few stops and starts. The last bus stop is the border itself and you only have 15 yards to get checked out of Thailand. As ever, the Thai border authorities are pleasant and efficient. Now for the notorious Cambodian officials.

It was 9.15am. When I crossed over there were about 4 cocky teenagers with old older guy in this twenties to welcome me to Cambodia. They all had pretty good English and were keen to direct me to the official waiting 10 yards away. This was a clean, efficient bunch who actually wore their uniforms with pride in contrast to the slack jawed yokels down in Koh Kong wearing string vests. The guy who gave me the visa wanted 1100 baht and even when I told him I only had 20 US, he didn’t believe me. They are meant to take US only but get a good cut out of baht. I gave him 1000 baht and he was happy. The guys down in Koh Kong start at 1400 Baht as there usually half a dozen of them to keep happy as they swarm around you.

The second official who stamps you in said he would do it for 100 baht. I smiled and didn’t pay. He didn’t press the issue.

Next was how to get to Anlong Veng. Its about 80km away along a bad dusty road. The areas around the road have yet to be cleared of land mines. The cocky lads (who had moto bikes) started at 700 but after a chat would not go below 400 baht. I told them I would check out the taxis and get something to eat at the duty-free market which is a 7-minute walk towards Anlong Veng. At that they said they would meet me down there. They went directly to the taxi guys (I could see them) and now the taxi price was 600 baht. I went to the market and the boys waited outside.

The market was busy and is a good place to eat. There are moto drivers all over the place for the local routes. I went to a group where there was one English speaker. I mentioned 300 baht as an opening (far too high) and three lads jumped at the chance. I picked a shy looking chap with a new bike. He had no English and seemed too shy to speak Khmer. He went off for a helmet. I reckon these guys would do the trip for 200 baht. Off we went at a hell of a pace. A few minutes in and the driver looks around at a beeping horn. Its like mad Max. Hot on our trail was the older guy in a taxi (passenger seat) followed by two of his buddies on bikes. They stopped us and had words with me and my driver.

My driver didn’t say one word (told you he was shy) and the older guy wanted 50 baht from me because he waited for me and another guy wanted 100 baht because he helped me at the immigration post (he lent me his pen). I told them no with a smile and they sulked off.

It was meant to take two hours but this guy was a speed merchant bar none. Too bloody fast on bad roads. Every time we hit a pot hole, I rose off the back seat, creaking my neck and hurting my bum. It was a red dusty road and every time an oncoming truck passed us, we were devoured by dust. It took only 1.5 hours to get to Anlong Veng. It was 11.30am. When I was paying him he made it look like he wanted 400 baht. The boys from the border must have told him he was being cheated and the foreigner price was 400 baht. He wasn’t that sort though and accepted the 300 baht with a smile.

It is a tiny one street down full of dust and land mine warnings. I saw many newly discovered mines and unexploded ordinances (UXO) on the road to Anlong Veng. They have a sign saying mine and they put stakes and red tape around the object. I saw at least 20 such mines identified just beside the road we were traveling. There is no way any sane person would walk off the road to go for a piss or to take a photo.

There were also teams of Cambodian Mine Action Centre (CMAC) and military carrying out slash, burn and mine search along the road.

They were cutting down all vegetation about 15 meters in from both sides of the road and were using detectors to search for mines. The worrying thing was that they were searching for mines ON the road as well.

Anyway there are three guesthouses in town. They have set a 3 US price which they wont budge from. I tried the centre one but it was dank and dark. The third one on the way out of town was called border Success and it was nice. they accepted 100 baht for a second floor room. it has a big bed, big window and mosquito net. You can swing on a hammock in the balcony and have a beer.

it was noon and I asked a moto driver to take me to see Pol Pot's cremation site. He started with 10 US but took 4 US without argument. It only took 1.5 hours round trip. it was interesting and I am glad I took this trip.

On a bicycle! (January 2005):

I did this trip by bicycle from the Khun Han, Thailand on 20 January, 2005. I think there is a town closer with a hotel but it worked out OK. After 80 KM or so the I came to the turn off for the border. The sign indicated that it was 18 KM to Cambodia. The first 2 km were on a nicely paved road with plenty of place to get water and food. Then you turn off onto a dirt road that will take you the rest of the way to the border. At the time I thought the road was horrific, at least until I got to the Cambodian side. There are no signs or stores whatsoever on the route but it is impossible to get lost. Buy water at the store at the turn off because unless the army post you pass through gives you some water you will have none. The road for the most part is an uphill climb but nothing very steep. There are a couple of steeper downhills that are in a very dusty condition. I had no idea how far I had travelled, but now having done it, when you cross the slick rock creek bed you have 15-20 minutes left.

The border was kind of confusing as there were 6 or 8 huts set up on the Thai side but nothing to indicate which was the one to go to. Finally the Immigration guy called me over. The Immigration guy was a very nice person. He works here five days then goes to Kap Choeng for five days. We chatted for a while as he processed me out. He gave me water which was badly needed at this point.

After I finish with the Thai's, I walk over to the Cambodian side. A group of five, I guess Immigration guys, looked at my passport and small talked for a bit. Then they told me to go see visa man. The visa man was set up in a small shack but we sat outside at a picnic table while the visa was processed. It was very pleasant, there were hundreds of big black butterflys all over the place. I filled out the form. The man made up the visa and placed it in my passport. He then said "now you pay money." I pulled out a US $20.00 and gave it to his partner, who seemed much less professional than the visa man. But they took the $20.00 and pointed me over to the Immigration booth where I was admitted to Cambodia. The whole Thai/Cambodian processing time was maybe 20-25 minutes.

Once admitted the fun begins. It is straight down that mountain. The dust is real deep in spots, there are jagged rocks everywhere, but when I went down very little traffic, one or two cars. At the bottom the road widens and its a pretty quick shot into Anlong Veng. Once on the bottom it took me a while to figure out that traffic here drives on the right side of the road, I had to ask some kids on a moter bike.

I was told that it is 15 km from the border to Anlong Veng and that seems about right. Pretty close to the traffic circle are two guest houses, and maybe there are more in town.

If you go in the opposite direction, you're going to do a lot of bike pushing to get up to the border.

Read more about the author's adventures here: http://eastbaybob.crazyguyonabike.com

Siem Reap to Thailand with a detour to Preah Vihear (April 2004):

I had occasion to go from Siem Reap north to Anlong Veng and then into Thailand last weekend, testing out the fairly new border crossing just outside of Anlong Veng.

The trip to Anlong Veng was easy enough from the transit hub about 1.5 km east of Psar Leu Tom Thmei. We took a share taxi (avoided paying for an extra cabin seat for our bags in a pick-up). I am sure we were over charged at $8 for 2 seats (The others in car got out and paid 25,000 riel for 2) but it was still OK by me. The road wasnt in great shape past Banteay Srei, but not terrible either. Not nearly as bad as the Sisophon-Siem Reap road was when I took it back in December.

We decided to go to Prasat Preah Vihear from the Cambodia side (didn't want to have to worry about what they might try to charge if we enter from the Thai side). We searched around and the cheapest prices we could come up with were $15 for a round-trip moto and $40 for a car. Note that either of these would only have gone to the bottom of the mountain. Then we were fortunate to run into Verha and Dick who arrived in Anlong Veng on dirt bikes. We hitched a ride out with them the next morning.

I am happy to say the road between Anlong Veng and the base of the mountain was 100 km of excellent graded, level dirt road. Fantastic by Cambodian standards I think. Hardly any ruts or potholes and not very dusty because it rained the previous evening. Unfortunately it may not last that way for long with the rains coming, but the road sees such little traffic it might hold up pretty well through the monsoon. The drive took 1.5 hours (probably would take 2 hours on a normal moto) to arrive at the base of the hill. The road up the mountain was in decidedly worse shape - rocky, gravelly, steep, and gutted and rutted all over the place. The bikes went up without us on the pillon but we road down without much trouble.

Anyway back in Anlong Veng the next day we went for the Thai border, officially called the Anlong Veng - Sa-Ngam Border, which has only been open since November. We were told later that most of the pickup trucks leave Anlong Veng at about 6 am to take border-market workers, smugglers, and porters up to the border. A seat in the cabin costs 3,000 riel and in the back is 2,000 riel. Of course we weren't up that early and managed to get a lift from a nice guy who ran a restaurant near Pol Pot's house and was in town to buy some New Year's supplies. Its about 20 km to the border, first on a level dirt road with some potholes, but them up the same ridgeroad towards Pol Pot's old house. That road is still rocky and in miserable shape and I wouldn't recommend doing it with a motodop when you are wearing a big backpack.

The Cambodian border guards were very friendly and quite well organized, and the nice head officer on duty spoke decent English, didn't demand any tip, and even complained about being stuck there when he had previously been posted at the airport in Phnom Penh. We crossed over to Thailand to find things uncharacteristically in disorder. Half the huts didn't have anyone working in them, no one seemed interested in stamping us into the country, and they were especially confused that we had come FROM Cambodia at the time we did (about 10 am). Finally we convinced them to give us a stamp and let us go on our way.

Transit from the border to town is tougher. We were told there were buses at 8 am, 10 am, 2 pm, and 4 pm. Since we had missed it the District Commissioner offered us a ride when he went down the hill about 1 hour later so we agreed. For others who miss the bus, there were plenty of pickups and trucks going down the hill after delivering their goods, so a ride can certainly be had, but to where I don't know.

The district official told us that the road to the border, currently a solid graded, level dirt road was being replaced by a new paved road which would be ready next year. He even asked our advice on how to let tourists know about the new border and how to get them to come through his district (and spend money of course)! Anyway the trip down to the crossroads with highway 24 took about 45 minutes..

For those wanting to go the other way, I can't say where to catch the "bus" from but I can tell you the junction was at a town called Khukhan where Highway 24 intersected road 2201. We waited a long time for a bus headed to Khorat from there before we got fed up and just had the police sitting across the road help us flag down a passing vehicle that would take us down the highway. Khorat is about 242 km away, Surin about 150 km and Si Saket only a few dozen kilometers north from that junction. Going the other way it should be easy to catch a bus to Ubon Ratchatani for the Pakse border into Laos.

Overall it was a fun and adventurous trip, but people shouldnt delude themsleves that this is comfortable terrain to travel on, at least not yet! ;) Happy travels.

One PS about the border. On the Cambodian side there is a new, well-labelled hut that said "Visa Service". Since we went the other way I would have no idea what kind of price they will charge for this service, or how much their "tea money" might be.

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Thanks. Keep 'em coming.

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All text and photographs © 1998 - 2006 Gordon Sharpless. Commercial or editorial usage without written permission of the copyright holder is prohibited.

These are reports detailing experiences traveling independently between Thailand and Cambodia by way of Anlong Veng. This crossing is about 150 kilometers north of Siem Reap and opened to foreigners of all nationalities in November 2003. This can be a convenient border crossing for those who wish to travel between Siem Reap and Laos (Vientiane, Luang Prabang) and northern Thailand (Isaan, Chiang Mai). If you'd like to share your own experiences, please e-mail them to me.

I recently did my first visa run at Chong Sa-Ngam Border. Surprisingly smooth venture. I reached Chong Sa-Ngam around 9am and there were not many people around. No problems at all at the Thai office. A very friendly Thai officer in his 40s promptly stamped my passport with a smile and invitation to "Come back to Thailand soon!". In and out of the Thai office in less than 5 minutes.

I then walked over to the Cambodian side. A Cambodian officer stopped me soon as I crossed over and asked for my passport. After flipping a few pages, he led me over to a tent where there was man (not in uniform) sitting at a table with piles of paper (looking like forms and transport schedules). I had to follow him as he had my passport. I was questioned in a mix of Khmer and a little English about my destination and mode of transport to Cambodia. They refused to give me back my passport and kept pressing me for answers. But after a fruitless 10-minute 'talk' with me shaking my head with a smile, indicating my non-understanding of their questions, I managed to get away from them, soon as I got my passport back. I think they were trying to sell me transportation to Cambodia.

At the Cambodian office, 3 officers spent about 10 minutes trying to ascertain my visa-free status (Singapore), searching through documents and confirming with one another constantly. Finally convinced that I do not require to pay for a visa, they gave me the entry stamp. However, when I handed the passport back to them requesting for an exit stamp then, they certainly did not look very happy when it dawned on them that I was on a visa run. Two of them immediately showed a black face and walked out of the office. The remaining officer reluctantly stamped my passport. Though unhappy, they did not give me any trouble at all.

Then it was back to the Thai side for my entry stamp, where I was warmly welcomed by the same officer :"Hello! You're back already! Good, good." We had a nice chat after my passport was stamped. A very smooth visa run at a relatively quiet border.

Speed demons (May 2005): [Note: Though I received this in late May 2005, the information contained in this item dates to January 2004. The author has also asked that I include a link to his site and some photos from Anlong Veng. Happy to oblige: http://www.irish-guy.com/2004_01_20_archive.html.]

Tuesday, January 20th, 2004

I stayed at Pirom's House in Surin for 1000 baht. The guesthouse owner had given me a list of times of the buses to the border. They start at 5.30am and there are about a dozen until 4.00pm. I was up a bit late at 6.18am and was surprised to see it very bright outside.

I walked directly to the bus station but was late so I paid a moto-driver 10 baht to take me half the way (the end half). I was in time to take the 6.50am bus for 30 baht. You can take a mini-bus for 100 baht which goes directly there. The border crossing and bus destination is called Chong Jom. It is approximately 80km from Surin.

It took over two hours to get there but there were few stops and starts. The last bus stop is the border itself and you only have 15 yards to get checked out of Thailand. As ever, the Thai border authorities are pleasant and efficient. Now for the notorious Cambodian officials.

It was 9.15am. When I crossed over there were about 4 cocky teenagers with old older guy in this twenties to welcome me to Cambodia. They all had pretty good English and were keen to direct me to the official waiting 10 yards away. This was a clean, efficient bunch who actually wore their uniforms with pride in contrast to the slack jawed yokels down in Koh Kong wearing string vests. The guy who gave me the visa wanted 1100 baht and even when I told him I only had 20 US, he didn’t believe me. They are meant to take US only but get a good cut out of baht. I gave him 1000 baht and he was happy. The guys down in Koh Kong start at 1400 Baht as there usually half a dozen of them to keep happy as they swarm around you.

The second official who stamps you in said he would do it for 100 baht. I smiled and didn’t pay. He didn’t press the issue.

Next was how to get to Anlong Veng. Its about 80km away along a bad dusty road. The areas around the road have yet to be cleared of land mines. The cocky lads (who had moto bikes) started at 700 but after a chat would not go below 400 baht. I told them I would check out the taxis and get something to eat at the duty-free market which is a 7-minute walk towards Anlong Veng. At that they said they would meet me down there. They went directly to the taxi guys (I could see them) and now the taxi price was 600 baht. I went to the market and the boys waited outside.

The market was busy and is a good place to eat. There are moto drivers all over the place for the local routes. I went to a group where there was one English speaker. I mentioned 300 baht as an opening (far too high) and three lads jumped at the chance. I picked a shy looking chap with a new bike. He had no English and seemed too shy to speak Khmer. He went off for a helmet. I reckon these guys would do the trip for 200 baht. Off we went at a hell of a pace. A few minutes in and the driver looks around at a beeping horn. Its like mad Max. Hot on our trail was the older guy in a taxi (passenger seat) followed by two of his buddies on bikes. They stopped us and had words with me and my driver.

My driver didn’t say one word (told you he was shy) and the older guy wanted 50 baht from me because he waited for me and another guy wanted 100 baht because he helped me at the immigration post (he lent me his pen). I told them no with a smile and they sulked off.

It was meant to take two hours but this guy was a speed merchant bar none. Too bloody fast on bad roads. Every time we hit a pot hole, I rose off the back seat, creaking my neck and hurting my bum. It was a red dusty road and every time an oncoming truck passed us, we were devoured by dust. It took only 1.5 hours to get to Anlong Veng. It was 11.30am. When I was paying him he made it look like he wanted 400 baht. The boys from the border must have told him he was being cheated and the foreigner price was 400 baht. He wasn’t that sort though and accepted the 300 baht with a smile.

It is a tiny one street down full of dust and land mine warnings. I saw many newly discovered mines and unexploded ordinances (UXO) on the road to Anlong Veng. They have a sign saying mine and they put stakes and red tape around the object. I saw at least 20 such mines identified just beside the road we were traveling. There is no way any sane person would walk off the road to go for a piss or to take a photo.

There were also teams of Cambodian Mine Action Centre (CMAC) and military carrying out slash, burn and mine search along the road.

They were cutting down all vegetation about 15 meters in from both sides of the road and were using detectors to search for mines. The worrying thing was that they were searching for mines ON the road as well.

Anyway there are three guesthouses in town. They have set a 3 US price which they wont budge from. I tried the centre one but it was dank and dark. The third one on the way out of town was called border Success and it was nice. they accepted 100 baht for a second floor room. it has a big bed, big window and mosquito net. You can swing on a hammock in the balcony and have a beer.

it was noon and I asked a moto driver to take me to see Pol Pot's cremation site. He started with 10 US but took 4 US without argument. It only took 1.5 hours round trip. it was interesting and I am glad I took this trip.

I did this trip by bicycle from the Khun Han, Thailand on 20 January, 2005. I think there is a town closer with a hotel but it worked out OK. After 80 KM or so the I came to the turn off for the border. The sign indicated that it was 18 KM to Cambodia. The first 2 km were on a nicely paved road with plenty of place to get water and food. Then you turn off onto a dirt road that will take you the rest of the way to the border. At the time I thought the road was horrific, at least until I got to the Cambodian side. There are no signs or stores whatsoever on the route but it is impossible to get lost. Buy water at the store at the turn off because unless the army post you pass through gives you some water you will have none. The road for the most part is an uphill climb but nothing very steep. There are a couple of steeper downhills that are in a very dusty condition. I had no idea how far I had travelled, but now having done it, when you cross the slick rock creek bed you have 15-20 minutes left.

The border was kind of confusing as there were 6 or 8 huts set up on the Thai side but nothing to indicate which was the one to go to. Finally the Immigration guy called me over. The Immigration guy was a very nice person. He works here five days then goes to Kap Choeng for five days. We chatted for a while as he processed me out. He gave me water which was badly needed at this point.

After I finish with the Thai's, I walk over to the Cambodian side. A group of five, I guess Immigration guys, looked at my passport and small talked for a bit. Then they told me to go see visa man. The visa man was set up in a small shack but we sat outside at a picnic table while the visa was processed. It was very pleasant, there were hundreds of big black butterflys all over the place. I filled out the form. The man made up the visa and placed it in my passport. He then said "now you pay money." I pulled out a US $20.00 and gave it to his partner, who seemed much less professional than the visa man. But they took the $20.00 and pointed me over to the Immigration booth where I was admitted to Cambodia. The whole Thai/Cambodian processing time was maybe 20-25 minutes.

Once admitted the fun begins. It is straight down that mountain. The dust is real deep in spots, there are jagged rocks everywhere, but when I went down very little traffic, one or two cars. At the bottom the road widens and its a pretty quick shot into Anlong Veng. Once on the bottom it took me a while to figure out that traffic here drives on the right side of the road, I had to ask some kids on a moter bike.

I was told that it is 15 km from the border to Anlong Veng and that seems about right. Pretty close to the traffic circle are two guest houses, and maybe there are more in town.

If you go in the opposite direction, you're going to do a lot of bike pushing to get up to the border.

I had occasion to go from Siem Reap north to Anlong Veng and then into Thailand last weekend, testing out the fairly new border crossing just outside of Anlong Veng.

The trip to Anlong Veng was easy enough from the transit hub about 1.5 km east of Psar Leu Tom Thmei. We took a share taxi (avoided paying for an extra cabin seat for our bags in a pick-up). I am sure we were over charged at $8 for 2 seats (The others in car got out and paid 25,000 riel for 2) but it was still OK by me. The road wasnt in great shape past Banteay Srei, but not terrible either. Not nearly as bad as the Sisophon-Siem Reap road was when I took it back in December.

We decided to go to Prasat Preah Vihear from the Cambodia side (didn't want to have to worry about what they might try to charge if we enter from the Thai side). We searched around and the cheapest prices we could come up with were $15 for a round-trip moto and $40 for a car. Note that either of these would only have gone to the bottom of the mountain. Then we were fortunate to run into Verha and Dick who arrived in Anlong Veng on dirt bikes. We hitched a ride out with them the next morning.

I am happy to say the road between Anlong Veng and the base of the mountain was 100 km of excellent graded, level dirt road. Fantastic by Cambodian standards I think. Hardly any ruts or potholes and not very dusty because it rained the previous evening. Unfortunately it may not last that way for long with the rains coming, but the road sees such little traffic it might hold up pretty well through the monsoon. The drive took 1.5 hours (probably would take 2 hours on a normal moto) to arrive at the base of the hill. The road up the mountain was in decidedly worse shape - rocky, gravelly, steep, and gutted and rutted all over the place. The bikes went up without us on the pillon but we road down without much trouble.

Anyway back in Anlong Veng the next day we went for the Thai border, officially called the Anlong Veng - Sa-Ngam Border, which has only been open since November. We were told later that most of the pickup trucks leave Anlong Veng at about 6 am to take border-market workers, smugglers, and porters up to the border. A seat in the cabin costs 3,000 riel and in the back is 2,000 riel. Of course we weren't up that early and managed to get a lift from a nice guy who ran a restaurant near Pol Pot's house and was in town to buy some New Year's supplies. Its about 20 km to the border, first on a level dirt road with some potholes, but them up the same ridgeroad towards Pol Pot's old house. That road is still rocky and in miserable shape and I wouldn't recommend doing it with a motodop when you are wearing a big backpack.

The Cambodian border guards were very friendly and quite well organized, and the nice head officer on duty spoke decent English, didn't demand any tip, and even complained about being stuck there when he had previously been posted at the airport in Phnom Penh. We crossed over to Thailand to find things uncharacteristically in disorder. Half the huts didn't have anyone working in them, no one seemed interested in stamping us into the country, and they were especially confused that we had come FROM Cambodia at the time we did (about 10 am). Finally we convinced them to give us a stamp and let us go on our way.

Transit from the border to town is tougher. We were told there were buses at 8 am, 10 am, 2 pm, and 4 pm. Since we had missed it the District Commissioner offered us a ride when he went down the hill about 1 hour later so we agreed. For others who miss the bus, there were plenty of pickups and trucks going down the hill after delivering their goods, so a ride can certainly be had, but to where I don't know.

The district official told us that the road to the border, currently a solid graded, level dirt road was being replaced by a new paved road which would be ready next year. He even asked our advice on how to let tourists know about the new border and how to get them to come through his district (and spend money of course)! Anyway the trip down to the crossroads with highway 24 took about 45 minutes..

For those wanting to go the other way, I can't say where to catch the "bus" from but I can tell you the junction was at a town called Khukhan where Highway 24 intersected road 2201. We waited a long time for a bus headed to Khorat from there before we got fed up and just had the police sitting across the road help us flag down a passing vehicle that would take us down the highway. Khorat is about 242 km away, Surin about 150 km and Si Saket only a few dozen kilometers north from that junction. Going the other way it should be easy to catch a bus to Ubon Ratchatani for the Pakse border into Laos.

Overall it was a fun and adventurous trip, but people shouldnt delude themsleves that this is comfortable terrain to travel on, at least not yet! ;) Happy travels.

One PS about the border. On the Cambodian side there is a new, well-labelled hut that said "Visa Service". Since we went the other way I would have no idea what kind of price they will charge for this service, or how much their "tea money" might be.